eBus Adapter Version 2.0 / 2.1 / 2.2

[wak]

Schönen Tag.

Wann kann eine Bestellung bei ebus-rpi aufgegeben werden?

freundliche Grüße

[olib35]

Hallo zusammen. Die russische Kollegen haben eine sehr hübsche Platine für Wemos als Shild in Altium Designer entworfen. Sieht sehr professionell aus. https://sprut.ai/client/article/2769

[seoo]

Hallo,

wäre dabei wenns wieder eine Sammelbestellung für Basis+Eweiterungsplatine gibt!

Viele Grüße!

[nethome]

Servus
Ich bin auch interessiert eBus Adapter V2.2 basisplatine, erweiterungsplatine und RPI.
Viele Grüße

[Reinhart]

Ankündigung für eBUS Adapter 3.0 hier!


Die Adapter der Version 2.x werden daher nicht mehr nachbestellt bzw. ausgeliefert werden, da die neue Version über ein neues verbessertes Konzept verfügt!


LG
Reinhart

[Zigulle]

Ich hötte auch gerne einen Adapter Verson 2.2 oder neuer für den Raspberry Pi. Wann ist den eine Bestellung der neuen Version angedacht?

[Chiuaua]

Hi all. Small introduction, I am Cor from the Netherlands and was hoping to use the eBus adapter to read out values from my Brink Renovent Excellent 400, which is just the Dutch version of the Wolf CWL400. Possibly also control the unit, but using openhab in the end (using openhab ase the basis for my Velux and Somfy windows blinds and sunscreens). Feel free to respond in German, I fully understand German, but my German writing skills are poor.

As I did not see a possibility to obtain an eBus adapter from here (sammeleinkauf), I checked the drawings, ordered components from Conrad and had a custom PCB made, which is nearly identical to the original. The major difference was the use of a different comparator (LM393) as Conrad did not have the TLC393 and further the eBus connector to be able to plug a cable in rather than attaching it with screws. I used a Lolin D1 mini (the new Wemos) as a network interface and running ebusd on a virtual Linux machine, which can communicate with the network with no problem. All measurements were OK, but eBusd did not recognise the board. The green RX led hardly lit up.

In the end I ordered some replacement components from Reichelt like new CNY17-4 optocouplers the TLC393 and the LED's directly from the Reichelt cart url that is present at your ebus 2 github webpage. I replaced OK1 (the RX optocoupler), the comparator and LED's. Again, no joy. Only when running a finger across some solder joints of the TLC393 and OK1, the green LED would start flickering for a while, the D1 mini web interface (with John30's firmware) showed that an ebus adapter was present, but after a few minutes no more data from the ebus adapter (green LED stopped flickering, D1 mini interface showed no more connection with the adapter. Without the ebus connected the green LED lit up firm (which it is supposed to do without voltage from the eBus)

Becoming desperate, I decided to start from scratch, now beginning with looking for a PCB housing that I could attach to the wall, dimensioning a PCB to fit in there around the available studs to attach the PCB in the housing and having the D1 mini connected directly to the board with it's header pins, rather than using dupont jumper cables and now ordering ALL components from Reichelt (had to replace the C1 capacitor with another 10uF, as the original isn't available anymore). Had the new PCB produced, soldered everything onto it, but again no joy...

Taking measurements: all are ok, but no green flickering LED. Not even a firm green lit LED without the eBus connected. Again, touching pins on the board gives the expected response: touching OK1's base pin (pin 6) with my fingers gives a firm green LED without eBus connected and even the D1 mini shows adapter connection when the adapter is connected to the eBus and I touch OK1 pin 6 (base pin). I am totally lost. Taking resistance and voltage measurements across the board and all is as expected. The TLC393 comparator has exact 5 volts at pin 8 and ground at pin 4. The solder joints are OK when measuring between pins over the board. Without eBus connection pin 7 of TLC393 is 0.4 volt compared to GND (pin 4), which is correct. RXD from the D1 mini is down to 1.80 V (measuring between pin 4 and 5 of OK1), but no green LED. The green LED only lights up when touching pin 6 of OK1 and the voltage drop between pin 4 and 5 rises to 1.88 volt. So voltage wise nothing really changes at the cathode of the green LED, but suddenly it lights up.

I know it is a homebrew version and I don't expect the designers of the original to help me out, but maybe they are willing to give some more troubleshooting tips? Especially now I read that no new adapters will (/can) be ordered anymore....

[john30]

Especially now I read that no new adapters will (/can) be ordered anymore....

You probably misinterpreted that as we're going to release new adapters of version 3.0.
with regard to the measurement, please check the values as stated here

[john30]

Ich hötte auch gerne einen Adapter Verson 2.2 oder neuer für den Raspberry Pi. Wann ist den eine Bestellung der neuen Version angedacht?

das wird dann hier oder im 3.0 Thread angekündigt. Termin können wir noch nicht sagen, weil die Tester erst ran müssen.

[Chiuaua]

You probably misinterpreted that as we're going to release new adapters of version 3.0.
with regard to the measurement, please check the values as stated here

Well.... I replaced OK1 with a spare unit I had still lying around as I ordered too many the previous time and held the soldering iron a few more seconds to the pins of the green LED to let the solder flow nicely. Et voila: it works Me is happy.

Thanks to the team for making the schematics publicly available. Will try to post a few pics of my custom board in some time to show it off

[Chiuaua]

I finally managed to take some time out to hang my ebus adapter on the wall and made some pictures as I'm just a little proud of the result.

About my personal design: two ebus connectors. This way the adapter is also the ebus throughput from my Brink (Wolf) Excellent and my room controller (similar to Wolf BML). Originally both connectors were connected via a threeway valve that regulated flow to living and sleeping spaces, but that valve was defective after two years. The valve is useless anyway as I also work night shifts and the room controller that controls the valve is only able to "think" sleeping happens at night time.

Second, the Wemos wifi board is stuck directly on top of the board as my first trial with a copy of your eBus adapter 2.2 PCB had the problem that the dupont/jumper cables came off to easy (which is my fault of ordering poor material, I guess).

With the PCB box closed I cannot see the LED's lighting up, but I don't need a permanent visual of these. If it works, it works 

[zbizel]

Dear All

I would like to purchase an ebus converter to connect my vaillant heating to my Home Automation network
can anyone help me in purchasing or get gerber files to order the plate

Kind Regards

[benoti]

Hallo Leute,

danke für diese tolle Entwicklung. Bin leider bei der letzten Sammelbestellung der Version 2.2 zu spät gewesen und würde sehr gerne eine Platine der v3.0 mitbestellen, sobald diese verfügbar ist. Testen würde ich natürlich auch, gibt aber wahrscheinlich bessere Experten hier im Forum.
Bitte nehmt mich auf die Reservierungsliste auf für eine Platine.

Grüße,
Ben

[Reinhart]

es gibt zwar schon eine Online Reservierungsliste, aber die ist noch nicht freigeschaltet weil wir noch keine genauen Preise und Termine wissen. Das hängt von den Lieferanten ab und deren Termine sind wegen der Pandemie noch nicht ganz fix.
Platinen einzeln wird es so nicht mehr geben da die SMD Bauteile nur ganz wenige löten werden können.

Bitte daher noch etwas Geduld, selbst die Testphase konnten wir wegen der Lieferproblematik noch nicht einleiten. Wir posten aber rechtzeitig, sobald wir die V3 starten können!

LG
Reinhart

[Oberchefe]

Hallo zuammen,

ich habe jetzt mal eine ganz blöde Frage:

Hier werden alle möglichen Schaltungen für einen eBus Adapter entwickelt. Manche davon sind am Ende wohl doch nicht ganz so toll wie gedacht, benötigen teilweise einen fummeligen Abgleich. Im "offiziellen" PDF von diesem eBus Verein sind ja auch zwei Schaltungsvorschläge abgebildet, ein einfaher und ein zweiter mit Potentialtrennung. Ich gehe davon aus, dass dieser Vorschlag auf Anhieb und zuverlässig funktionieren sollte. Weshalb werden hier dann neue Schaltungen entwickelt? Nur weil im Vorschlag vielleicht ein Optokoppler oder Komparator verwendet ist, der nicht ganz so üblich ist? Oder sind es andere technische Gründe?

Gibt die die Möglichkeit, dass man eine E-Mail bekommt, sobald die Reservierungsliste freigeschaltet ist?